The Roussillon region has been described (by Hugh Johnson) as perhaps potentially the most impressive part of the Languedoc. The wines of young Jean Gardi_s confirm Mr. Johnson's confidence. A few years ago Jean's son Victor took over the family domaine and has gradually increased the amount of the production which he is releasing in bottle. There are "super cuv_es" of Syrah pure (Les Falaises), Mourv_dre (La Torre) and Grenache Vieilles Vignes, which were considered the top wines produced in the Roussillon in vintage 2000 by the Revue du Vin de France. Yet even his cuv_e Les Mill_res, no barrique aging, shows Gardi_s' great gift for making structured, concentrated, and yet elegant wines. In addition to Domaine Gardies, Jean also oversees a property just outside of Espira de l'Agly called Mas Las Cabes, which is younger vines and the wines are made in a 'drink now' style.